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Bistro Cooking at Home, by Gordon Hamersley
A review by James Ringrose

If you visit your local bookstore looking for a cook-book then you are likely to find yourself staring at an overwhelmingly large selection. Dozens of books by Celebrity Chefs, all sorts of faddy diet cookbooks and hundreds of no name general recipe books. Much of this mountain of “remainder pile fodder” is not really worth the effort of reading. Standing out from this crowd are just a few cookbooks that really deserve a space in your kitchen library. They are good enough to take a permanent place alongside those family recipes from your mother and tried and trusted recipes that you've clipped from food magazines. By the way, if your clippings are in alphabetical order, then please seek medical help.

James and Gordon recording an interview. What a nice fellow and what a fantastic cookbook .
Click here to hear the interview

My all time top ten recipe books are diverse and eclectic. Most are new. Few are classics. All share the simple characteristic of being fun to cook from and guarantee as large as possible number of “ooh” and “aah” reactions when the dishes are served.

Gordon Hamersley’s “Bistro Cooking at Home”, is such a cookbook. Hamersley is one of Boston’s iconic chefs. His restaurant Hamersley’s Bistro represents the sum of his considerable wisdom and cooking skills and is a really fine dining establishment. “Bistro cooking at home”, is a superb cookbook that gives you a chance to create some of the best dishes from the bistro in your own kitchen.

I have cooked extensively from the book over the last few months. The recipes are easy to follow, detailed, professional and very well organized. The results are stunning. I annotate my cook books (OK scribble all over them). The margins of this one are full of “yum” and “great”, etc. This really is a marvelous recipe book!

Bistro Cooking
What is Bistro Cooking? Opinions really vary, just try a Google search. My definition is that it is the exact opposite of haut cuisine. Nothing stuffy here, no tiny portions or drizzled sauces, just French home style cooking at its best. Slow cooked stews, roasted chickens, seared steaks and great deserts. Comfort food, tasty food, classic dishes.
 

Ok, so you think I like it? Well perhaps a bit more detail for those of you who like a few facts to go along with the hyperbole.

The book covers bistro cooking (see the side bar) and has around 150 recipes. These cover everything from salads to deserts. There are many color photographs and the recipe pages are laid out in a commendably logical style. There is a description of each dish, the ingredient list and then detailed instructions on preparation, cooking and serving. Ingredients are easily sourced and most of the spices are already in your spice cabinet, no Peruvian Yak’s milk or Wildebeest’s liver needed to be successful here.


The Facts:
Author: Gordon Hamersley, with Joanne McAllister Smart. Joanne is a freelance food writer.
333 pages, 150+ recipes, high quality paper and binding.
Many color photographs. Wine tips and very clear layout.
Cover price $35.00 (but of course, check out Amazon for the best price).
 

The tone of the book is knowledgeable and approachable. It definitely does not patronize or assume knowledge of arcane cooking terms, but it does feel like a professional’s workbook.

Most of the recipes are accompanied with wine suggestions. This is perhaps the least effective aspect of the layout. The strong emphasis on high end French varieties and vineyards are unlikely to adorn the shelves of your local liquor store. They do however indicate what’s in store for you if you visit Hamersley’s for dinner, but won’t help much at home.

The Verdict:
Highs:
Brilliant. Easy to follow recipes, great tasting results. Pleasure to read.
Lows:
Very few. Wine recommendations sometimes pretentious.
Buy it?
Absolutely! It’s a must have cook book. Belongs alongside Julia Child’s “The Way to Cook” and “The Oxford Companion to Food” on your desert island.
 

The food is perhaps best described as New England French. It has a distinct Parisian feel, but the ingredients include many local items, scallops, lobster etc. and the recipes favor our local favorites, chicken, steak, fish. There is a smattering of lamb recipes and slightly more exotic ingredients such as chicken livers and duck.

I recently cooked “Sear roasted rack of lamb with curry, date, chile and almond crust”. Rack of lamb is scary for most of us. If you don’t trim it correctly it’s a fatty mess. If you overcook it, it tastes like overdone game. Gordon wafts through these issues with precise and practical instructions. The first time I cooked this dish it came out perfectly and was absolutely delicious. It rekindled my interest in lamb and makes me want to try maybe the duck or one of the other ingredients that I don’t often cook.

The whole point of this book is its Pavlovian nature. You cook one of the recipes, it turns out very well, you feel like a chef; you cook another one and so on and so on. It really does make you want to try out all the recipes.

Gordon Hamersley is a very pleasant and unassuming man. During his interview for The Restaurant Review, I was very impressed with his total professionalism and focus on what’s needed to run a successful restaurant. His book reflects the man, his wife and his successful restaurant. I really can’t recommend it highly enough.

Where does it come in my top ten books? Click here to find out.

 

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