Other Links

The Restaurant Review Logo      
 
More
More Book Reviews
 
 
* Events Email *
If you would like to receive our FREE weekly Restaurant Review events and happenings guide just click below and fill in your email
[Sign Up Today]
 
Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants Knife Sharpener Restaurant eviews
  Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants  
Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants Knife Sharpener Restaurant eviews
   
  Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants  
Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants Knife Sharpener Restaurant eviews
  Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants  
Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants Knife Sharpener Restaurant eviews
   
Boston Restaurants Providence Restaurants Knife Sharpener Restaurant eviews
 New Italian Cooking
 by Scott Conant
 A review by James Ringrose - February 2006
Apparently, if you make a cross out of your fingers and wear cloves of garlic around your neck you can scare away vampires. I wonder what it takes to scare away the tidal wave of Italian cookbooks that are now on the market? There are literally hundreds of them currently

available, with over 1170 listed on Amazon alone. In stark contrast, there are only 200 Greek and 400 Spanish cookbooks.

So when Scott Conant's "New Italian Cooking" arrived in the mail, I was not expecting very much. Scott is a well-known Manhattan restaurateur with a well deserved reputation for innovative and sophisticated Italian cuisine. He was the recipient of a James Beard award for Best Restaurant in the country in 2003. Despite my prejudices, his cookbook had such a striking cover that I sat down and flicked through it.

The problem with there being so many Italian cookbooks on the market is that it's hard to tell the good from the bad. Many of them are simply rehashes of traditional Italian recipes with little new content. Italian cooking is one of the most dynamic styles in Europe with much innovation and reinvention happening all the time. Our somewhat jaded view of chicken Parmesan or spaghetti with tomato sauce is probably more grounded in family traditions, than it is in the cooking of Italy today. Recipes like grilled shrimp with mint, orange and fennel couscous hint at how contemporary this cookbook is.

Having got past my Italian cookbook thing, this one turned out to be a delight. It's beautifully produced, has fantastic recipes and the photography is gorgeous. Scott seems to understand the limitations of home cooks and includes many simple recipes that can be prepared in a very short period of time, which makes it ideal for midweek cooking ideas. On the other hand, there are plenty of recipes suited for cooking over a long weekend, or if you have to entertain the boss and want to impress.

The book is broken up into sections including "Small Tastes", Pasta, Risotto, Main Courses, Vegetables and Side Dishes and of course my favorite, Sweets and Cheeses. There's a nice section on the ingredients and where appropriate a little editorial about the recipe. Overall the book is really nicely laid out. The recipes are easy-to-follow and Scott's style is approachable and enjoyable.

We decided to try, "chicken breast topped with peas, asparagus, tarragon and melted Fontina cheese". From the pictures you can see that this is a pretty dish. The combination of browned chicken with peas, asparagus and cheese make for a mouthwatering dish. Overall cooking time was only about half an hour. We enjoyed the chicken with some rice and it was an excellent tasty meal, ideal for midweek fare. Enthused by our success we also tried an appetizer recipe, "Fried Zucchini with Anchovy Mayonnaise". This basically involves the breading and pan frying zucchini, although the breadcrumbs involved were Panko (Japanese style breadcrumbs). The fried zucchini was served with a home made mayonnaise, somewhat spiced up with anchovy. This made a delicious appetizer which was crunchy, tasty and very enjoyable.

The book has around 30 color photographs that are absolutely gorgeous. We used it on our bookstand in the kitchen like a piece of artwork for several weeks. If anything, this is the only shortcoming of the book - it could really do with a ton more pictures, to go with what are great recipes. If you are like me, you really only ever cook recipes that are accompanied by pictures. Food is extremely visual and it was the pictures that drew me to select the two recipes that we chose. I know that full-color photography is expensive, but it's the thing that makes the difference between a great cookbook and the mediocre one.

Overall, this is a tremendous book. It contains a wide selection of very innovative and exciting recipes that are well within the scope of the average home cook. It's one of those books that you can grab when you are desperate for an idea and use as a planning guide for a sophisticated meal.

blank space
The Verdict:
Highs:
Great-looking cookbook with superb pictures and recipes to match. Good range of recipes, carefully laid out and easy to execute well.
Lows:
As always there could be more pictures, this is especially obvious given the beautiful quality of those that there are.
Buy it?
Definitely a must have for anyone interested in new Italian style cooking. Ideal for the busy home cook who needs to dash off a quick, but tasty meal midweek.
 
The Facts:
Jasper White 50 Chowders
Author: Scott Conant
296 pages, 125 Italian recipes, plus notes and resources, hardcover.
Up to date Italian food, well within the home chef's capabilites.
Cover price $35.00 (as always, check out Amazon for the best price).
The Food:
Book Review
Fried Zucchini with Anchovy Mayonnaise. Crunchy and very tasty, the mayonnaise gives a sophisticated and spicy punch to the appetizer.
Book Review Chicken Dish
Chicken breast topped with peas, asparagus, tarragon and melted Fontina cheese. This dish looked nice on the plate and tasted terrific. It was very easy to prepare and makes an ideal midweek meal for a busy home chef.
About The Author
Scott Conant
Picture: © Lorenzo Aguis

SCOTT CONANT is the chef/owner of L'lmpero, which was honored with a James Beard award for best new restaurant in the country in 2003. His new high-end northern Italian restaurant venture, Alto, opened in Manhattan in Spring 2005. Named one of the 10 best new chefs in the country in 2004 by Food & Wine, and by New York magazine in July 2005 as the top heir apparent to superstar chef Jean-Georges Vongerichstein, Scott is a rising star. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America before working in some of Manhattan's finest kitchens, including San Domenico, II Toscanaccio, and Chianti.

©The Restaurant Review Cookbook Rating:
Many cookbooks look terrific and read like novels, but what happens when you take them into the kitchen to actually use them as intended? The Restaurant Review prepares items from the books that we review and we now have a finely tuned sense for those that work and those that don't. Below is our personal criteria for a good, practical cookbook.
Clear helpful description of each dish with serving suggestions
9
Clear, concise description of how to make the recipes, presented in logical order
9
Precise list of ingredients with accurate amounts
10
Helpful photographs and illustrations where needed
8
List of sources for difficult to get ingredients or use of everyday produce
10
Accurate number of servings produced by each recipe
10
Suitability for survival in the kitchen (paper quality, grease resistant ink, etc.)
8
Simple straightforward instructions in plain, easy to read and understandable English, with minimum page flipping required to complete a recipe
9
A good range and number of recipes covering the book's subject effectively
9
Usable well constructed, accurate index
10
 
Overall rating out of 10 :
9.2

Copyright 2003-2007 Intranet-Zones, Inc. The Restaurant Review and restreview.com are registered trademarks of
Intranet-Zones, Inc. 2003-2008. Restaurant Confidential Magazine is a trademark of Intranet-Zones, Inc. 2006-2008.
All other products and names mentioned are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved.


For full details, reviews and more about Boston restaurants and caterers, Providence restaurants,
Newport restaurants, Cape Cod restaurants and caterers and Rhode Island restaurants and caterers
listed on our site - please see our restaurants link or catering listings on the main menu.
Restaurant Confidential Magazine is the restaurant trade magazine of The Restaurant Review
It contains marketing, promotion and operations information for restaurant owners and chefs.