To say that McCormick & Schmick’s specializes
in seafood is an understatement. The menu is printed
daily, and boasts 32 to 40 fresh catches, ranging from
Massachusetts scallops to Mahi Mahi from Ecuador. For
those that delight in oysters from the raw bar, there
are always eight varieties from which to choose. And,
as McCormick & Schmick’s only offers farmed
oysters whose environments are strictly monitored and
controlled, they are shucked all year long.
John Gallagher, General Manager of McCormick & Schmick’s
at the Boston Park Plaza Hotel, explains that the restaurant
serves farmed oysters because farming yields a more consistent
product than those that are grown wild. Joe Hafner, Sous
Chef, adds that oysters are farmed similarly to any crop.
He explains that oyster seeds are placed either directly
into sand or in suspended trays, racks, bags, bells,
etc., to which they attach themselves and grow. These
seeds filter the ocean water and sand and in doing so
grow shells and flavor their plump flesh with the essence
of the environments in which they’re grown. Reaching
a marketable size usually takes between two and three
years. Farmers plan years ahead and have oysters staggered
enough to always have some on hand for sale. The water
temperature is strictly monitored, and if it rises above
60 degrees, oysters enter the reproductive phase, rendering
them inedible, which usually occurs during the summer.
Farmers, however, are able to drop racks deeper in the
ocean to control the temperature and continue growth
year-round.
There are oysters for every palate at McCormick & Schmick’s.
All are served on the half-shell atop crushed ice, accompanied
by a lemon wedge and cocktail sauce. Not sure what to
order? Hafner describes East Coast oysters as having
a high salt content, bigger flatter shell, and a briny,
beach-flavored finish, whereas West Coast oysters have
a deeper cup, smaller meatier oyster, and a sweeter aftertaste,
which he deems better for beginners. To better acquaint
oneself with the varieties, Hafner also suggests ordering
the Sampler, which doles out the top six oysters of the
day.
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The Charlestown Pond Oyster of Rhode Island, Gallagher’s
favorite, is harvested only for McCormick & Schmick’s,
and is the best East Coast seller. Its flesh is flat
and silky, and its flavor begins salty, but lingers a
subtle sweetness. Hafner prefers West coast oysters,
and favors the Kumamoto oyster of Humboldt Bay, California.
These oysters are cupped in smaller and deeper shells,
and although meatier then the Charlestown variety, are
creamy in texture and are much sweeter throughout. Other
top sellers are St Simone oysters of New Brunswick, California
and Golden Mantle oysters of Vancouver, B.C.
Celebrate the true essence of National Seafood Month
at McCormick & Schmick’s by savoring the unadulterated
tastes of farmed oysters. |
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| Tasting
Notes |
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| Rhode
Island, Charlestown Pond Oysters |
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Guide
price: $19.90 per dozen |
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Just
to ensure our editorial integrity, I had
to go to McCormick & Schmick’s and
check out these oysters (what a miserable job
I have!). I sidled up to a plate of freshly
shucked specimens that were deftly plated by
Joe Hafner, Sous Chef. They are a smallish
brown oyster in an attractive pale shell. I
downed half a dozen, with a little lemon and
a couple in the European style, with a small
splash of white wine. I am not sure how you
could taste an oyster with horseradish, but
that's a personal preference. They are sweet,
not too strong and have a very delicate and
subtle flavor. The liquor has a soft salty
taste without a brackish finish. The flesh
was not over chewy (something I hate) and they
really did go down well! Definitely a great
oyster for an appetizer with a glass of wine. |
by
James Ringrose |
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| The Charletown Pond oysters
are smallish, sweet, delicately flavored and very tasty |
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| The Oyster Bar at McCormick & Schmick’s
offers $1 oysters on Tuesdays, definitely a bargain. |
| Pond Facts |
Rhode Island’s coastal ponds exist
on both sides of Narragansett Bay, as well
as on Aquidneck Island and Block Island.
All nine ponds are shallow, with an average
depth of 3.9 feet, and range in size from
40 to 1,700 acres. The salt pond watershed
covers 32 square miles, and includes the
towns of Westerly, Charlestown, South Kingstown,
and Narragansett. The salinities of the
ponds depend on the amount of fresh water
entering the pond. Three of the ponds—Point
Judith, Cards, and Green Hill—have
significant streams flowing into them.
For the others, groundwater and surface
runoff are the principal sources of fresh
water.
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