Cambridge Brewing Company March, 2007 - Review by James Ringrose
B
ack in the early 70s, the beer drinking legions in Great Britain, revolted against a bland mass-produced beer that was being served by bars and public houses. A powerful grass roots campaign called "The Campaign for Real Ale ," swept the nation as the ale drinkers
demanded and got micro-brewed beers and ale from small breweries. The result was a proliferation of really splendid drinks, that packed the flavor and complexity that no mass-produced beer can ever seem to obtain.
The situation here in the US is far less dire and there is little chance of a similar revolution. There are some larger breweries who try and produce high-quality and interesting brews. However if you are after a broad selection of beer types that are all made from local ingredients and carefully handcrafted, then you need to look to a place such as the Cambridge Brewing Company.
Founded in 1989 the Cambridge Brewing Company is the oldest brewery-restaurant in the Boston area. Seemingly unafraid to depart from the norm, they have pioneered many American-style beers that lend their genesis to cultural references rather than other classic historical beers. Where else could you enjoy a glass of Cambridge Amber, an amazing well-balanced medium bodied beer with an astonishing amber-red color. It's packed with mall laced caramel sweetness
and an intense roasted caramel finish, that is complemented and balanced by spicy hops.
Pleasant and airy feeling space, at the back of Kendal Square.
It takes courage to present Barrel Fermented Wild Ale, Belgian Strong Style Ale and the gloriously named Blunderbuss Barley Wine Beer. For the beer connoisseur Cambridge Brewing Company is literally Seventh Heaven. For the rest of us, it's an opportunity to enjoy some obviously outstanding beers.
If it was just the beer then that would be enough on its own, but the CBC folks have added the extra dimension of well-crafted cuisine to accompany their beers. Something of the same fashion for creating flavorful beer has flowed into the nature of the dishes offered by CBC. The head brewer Will Myers and Brian Roskow, executive chef, liaise together to create extraordinary concoctions, all built around beer and beer flavors.
If your
first reaction is to be concerned that there is too much beer in this notion, then forget it. Brian uses the beer and some of its ingredients to embellish and enhance flavors that totally complement both the food and the accompanying beverage.
Will Meyers, Head Brewer, His focus on developing experimental beers has garnered him national awards and international recognition.
The Cambridge Brewing Company is situated in Kendall Square, tucked away in the back corner. The interior is casual and friendly as would befit a shrine to beer. There is plenty of seating both at the bar and in the two rooms the restaurant occupies. The back room contains the brewing machinery and has the added bonus of allowing you to watch the brewers busy at work.
Chef Brian Roskow delivers a refined dining experience
suited and styled for great beer and great food.
We chose a quiet day midweek for our review and were delighted to find a convivial after-work hubbub at the bar, as well as a few early diners. The crowd gradually grew to a full restaurant by the time we eventually left.
The wait staff are well versed in the virtues of each individual beverage and the complementary dishes. If you can't make your mind up as to which beer to choose, there is a great tasting "flight of beer" that gives you an opportunity to try a number of small glasses.
We put ourselves in the hands of our waitress and were delighted to enjoy both the tasting flight and a fine selection of dishes as you can see on the right.
Overall the experience was outstanding. In a world of increasingly bland offerings from major brewers, CBC offers a return to a more individual, hand crafted product. If you combine the excellent food with its beer ingredients and excellent flavor combinations, then you have something very interesting. Fundamentally this is a great place to dine, to take friends or to just stop by for an after work snack and glass of ale.
Danille Gilmer was our cheerful hostess. She and the rest of the staff were friendly and very knowledgeable as they guided us through the menu and beer options.
Beers:
Our dinner was paired with beer – a very interesting experience. Some of the beer is served at about 40 degrees. The beer is not pasteurized and contains no preservatives. Other beers are served at 55 degrees, as the beer warms up it develops a different more complex flavor which enhances the taste experience.
Tall Tale Pale Ale – big and bold, quite hoppy and a
pleasen nut flavor. Amber colored.
Fried calamari with kalamata olives, arugula, lemon and amber ale fra diablo dipping sauce – spicy, what a great flavor!
Half-Wit Belgian-style Wheat Ale – full body, robust flavors,
can taste orange and coriander. This wheat based ale is also unfiltered.
Chicken pot stickers with currant, sage and ginger citrus dipping sauce. The pot stickers were thin and crisp, perfectly cooked and the dipping sauce complimented them nicely.
Seared Ahi tuna with wasabi-soy vinaigrette, amber ale sticky rice and Asian slaw. The tuna was perfectly cooked and the amber ale rice was delicious. Loved the rice!
Sauteed venision medallions with horseradish au gratin potatoes, roasted cauliflower and winter ale juniper berry sauce. The meat was very tender, served rare with a very flavorful sauce. The horseradish potatoes au gratin – what a great change from the traditional.
Charles River Porter – deep and dark, full bodied and robust. Rich roasted malt character with notes of caramel and toffee.
Porter and brown sugar crème brulee – Wow!
Bier-imisu – a twist on the old classic. Delicious!!
"Golden Ring" Abbey Pale Ale – spicy, fruity, dry on the palate with flavors of toasted malt, fruity yeast, spicy hops and a long herbal finish.
Blunderbuss Barleywine 2006 – Complex ale with flavors and aromas of caramel, dried fruits, vanilla, toffee, spice hops and a warm alcohol finish. Unfiltered and unrefined, served in a snifter.
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