luxury of an Indian restaurant on every street corner. Our love of ethnic food encompasses Mexican, Chinese and Italian. It's not a surprise then, that you don't often find Indian restaurants on folk's top-ten list of places to dine. That's a sad thing. We are really missing out, as I will try to convince you.

Masala Art in Needham is a very unusual place. It is an upscale Indian restaurant, that features a terrific wine bar and an extraordinary “spice bar”. This cunning combination makes for a really entertaining evening with some of the best food to be had anywhere in the Needham area. We recently reviewed the brilliant Indigo restaurant, which is also in Needham – what's going in here? A cluster of food excellence perhaps? Who knows, but I envy the folks who live in Needham.

Walk through the door at Masala Art and you know you are onto something good. The bar is splendid. It features some outstanding carvings and really cool blue lighting. The bar dominates the entrance, but there are two large dining areas and a special section for the “spice bar” - more on that later.

We took a seat at the dark marble bar and allowed Jason Pierce, Beverage Manager and our Libation Engineer to help us decide on an appropriate drink. If Libation Engineer is an unfamiliar phrase to you, then let me explain. Mixologist came first, the professional who made your drink. Bar Chef was next and implied that some recipe or creation was involved. Finally comes Libation Engineer, the person who designs and creates the perfect concoction for your enjoyment and satisfaction. As well as being a Libation Engineer, Jason is also a hoot. He is part entertainer, part chef and part social worker. I don't think that I have ever spent an hour at a bar enjoying myself as much. He is a sophisticated, knowledgeable, well read and funny person. The fact that he mixes terrific drinks is just a bonus.

We enjoyed a cocktail that Jason designed and were really impressed with the quality of both the cocktails and the wine list that Masala offers. The bar is definitely fun and that alone would make Masala Art worth a visit, but there is far more here to enjoy.

We chose to try the Spice Bar for dinner. This unique dining experience is so different that it should come with a warning that it might effect your dining sensibilities permanently. Chef Sunil Soni is your cool guide to adventurous Indian dining. He starts by carefully assessing your tolerance for spice and your interest in various meats and vegetables. With that out of the way, Sunil goes on to roast the spices for your meal, while he describes both their origin and uses. As the spices roast on a large gas heated, steel sheet, the aromas that they give off are simply amazing. You sit there enjoying a drink, watching the chef making your food as great aromas waft by. It's a really entertaining experience. We tried several dishes, starting with the best chicken curry that I've tasted in years. There's something about the freshness of both the ingredients and the spices that make the food that Sunil prepares just outstanding.

This is a very different dining experience, that rewards the diner on the number of different fronts. I'm just not sure that I have ever experienced anything quite like it and can only recommend that you try it for yourself. Be prepared to have your sensibilities permanently altered and to develop a hankering for high-end Indian food that will stay for a long time.