Roadhouse
Cafe, Hyannis February, 2007 - Review by James Ringrose
I
n today's restaurant business, restaurants burst into
life as fully formed entities. Hundreds of thousands
of dollars are spent creating authentic looking themes
to dazzle diners with artifacts from some Italian village
or Canadian hunting lodge. Very few restaurants manage
to
survive long enough to develop
a natural ambiance gathered over the years, rather
than collected by a fashion conscious designer.
Located in the heart of Hyannis is one of Cape Cod's
most familiar landmarks, The Roadhouse Café.
This superb restaurant, was started 25 years ago by
David Columbo the current owner. As a bright eyed
and optimistic chef, he took care of a tiny 26 seat
restaurant. Growing steadily over the last 25 years
David has now hung up his chef's hat and now works
front of the house. During that time, the restaurant
has grown and grown. Over the course of four major
renovations, it now seats 200 guests.
What's so different about The Roadhouse Café
is the remarkable warm and clubby atmosphere that
is tastefully created with the use of rich dark mahogany
wood, plush carpets and a myriad of antiques and memorabilia.
We all expect our restaurants to be clean and look
nice. David either suffers from an extreme case of
obsessive compulsive disorder or sets a standard of
cleanliness and upkeep that that is so high, that
it leaves the majority of the gleaming new theme restaurants
well behind.
The Roadhouse Café is a rambling building,
as befits a property that has undergone as many renovations.
Each of the dining areas has its own personality and
feel. Warm wood and white table linens make the restaurant
feel upscale, but the atmosphere is generally relaxed
and welcoming. One of the great features is the large
bar area which has a number of booths to one side
and a terrific fireplace that is kept stocked with
blazing logs in the winter.
Ken Van Buren, Chef - At The Roadhouse he specializes in seafood and Italian cuisine with Asian and Middle Eastern influences. His passion for food shines through every dish.
As if a great atmosphere, good food and comfortable
surroundings were not enough, the restaurant features
live entertainment several times a week. There's nothing
quite like a good meal and wine together with the
sound of mellow jazz or soft blues to make you feel
you're enjoying something just a little bit special.
Entertainment:
The Roadhouse offers jazz on Monday nights and Piano
Bar on Fridays and Saturdays. We got to enjoy the Artie
Shaw jazz band featuring Lou Columbo (David's father)
on trumpet and their lead vocalist, Lori (David's sister).
The music was a great way to end a delicious meal.
Lisa,
our waitress - was a friendly and knowledgeable guide
to the menu, wines and the evenings proceedings.
Wines:
The Roadhouse offers over 20 different wines by the
glass ranging from $6.50 to $12. Their wine list is
very accessibly priced with many selections beginning
at $26. They also have more than 25 special cellar
selections ranging from $34 to $175. We sampled the
Simi Chadonnay with dinner and found it most enjoyable.
Beef carpaccio with
shaved grana. The meat was super thin and tender,
and went well with the cheese and garnishes.
Tuna sashimi with an oriental slaw, pickled ginger
and wasabi. The tuna was ultra fresh and the pepper
crust gave it a nice flavor and texture. The pickled
ginger was incredible. The oriental slaw was crunchy,
fresh and a bit spicy - a nice combination of flavors.
Cajun mussels with braised linguica,
mushrooms, onions and peppers. A nice spicy sauce, classic
jambalya like ingredients including okra, onions and
linguica.
Quite tasty!
Spinach salad with sunflower seeds, Bermuda onions, sun-dried cranberries, gorgonzola and tossed with an aged balsamic reduction. A great blend of flavors. The cheese and dried cranberries added a nice flavor and texture. The dressing was light, a nice accent to the fresh spinach.
Caesar salad. A very traditional salad
served with a tasty dressing.
Cioppino - seven types of fresh seafood
simmered with julienne vegetables in a light seafood
annis broth. The lobster was so sweet and there was
so much fresh seafood. The broth had a rich and delicious
flavor bringing a freshness to the dish. Flavor! Flavor!
Filet au Poivre - served with a wild
mushroom, peppercorn, cognac sauce, as well as garlic
mashed potatoes and asparagus. What a great pepper taste.
The filet was cooked perfect and the sauce fantastic.
The best interpretation of this French classic we've
had in years.
Chocolate cake with butterscotch chips and vanilla ice cream. Yum!
Apple cake with vanilla ice cream. Delicious!
Artie Shaw jazz band featuring Lou
Columbo (David's father) on trumpet and their lead vocalist,
Lori (David's sister). A nice way to finish off our
meal!
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